Cleveland’s most adaptable chef does it again, this time with Italian at Chinato
by Douglas Trattner
“Here, Bruell takes on Italian, refining and redefining the classics in contemporary fashion. And — surprise, surprise — he nails it. I’ve sampled four of the dozen or so pastas, and I’d order every one of them again. Each is an artful balance of flavors, textures and aromas, no small feat for a chef new to the cuisine. Thick rags of fresh pasta ($8/15) are coated in a creamy cauliflower sauce; buttery lumps of gnocchi ($8/15) are dotted with bits of toasted garlic; weightless ravioli ($10/18) swell from a savory meat and vegetable filling.”
